How To: Paint Dipping

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How To: Paint Dipping

Postby bubba » Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:31 pm

Ok, you need to paint a complex part, and you don't want to rattle can the part due to over spray. Well you have an option available to you.

Stuff needed:
- Bucket big enough to hold the part completely.
- Oil base paint in the color you want.

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Step 1:
Fill the bucket with enough water to cover the part with out touching the bottom of the bucket. Then pour the paint in slowly. what do you know paint floats! pour enough in to cover the surface of the water.

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Step 2:
hang your part on some thin wire, This will also be used to hang the part to dry, so make it so you can hold the part for dipping and hang drying.

Lower the part into the bucket, since the paint hits the part first, the part is covered before it hits the water, thus water wont mess up the paint or make the part rust.

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Step3:
Pull the part out slowly.

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Step4:
Hang dry.

You could spend the time to skim the paint back off the water but its cheap compared to the time it would take to salvage it.

Image credit goes to jetboat on rccrawler.com, I just elaborated a little on his brief how to, it works rather well. This is a technic that is used in an industrial setting prior to powder coating.
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Postby bigblockmatt » Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:42 pm

wow, thats pretty good. thanks for the tip.
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Postby The Black Pumpkin » Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:59 pm

That's an awesome idea, would cut down time on painting my mom's drive cages a lot!

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Postby Apoptosis » Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:03 pm

damn... i just learned something...

Thanks for sharing Bubba!
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Postby dgood » Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:11 pm

sweet I like it, but can I ask what it was you were painting in those photos? if only I could paint all of my computer components and not have them get screwed up lol.
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Postby The Black Pumpkin » Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:48 pm

Another question. Does the paint make drippy run marks down when you take it out of the water/paint?
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Postby camaroguy1998 » Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:05 pm

Thats a custom built RC Truck or Car frame dgood!

Bubba, thats one excellent piece of info!

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Postby dgood » Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:07 pm

I thought it was a frame to a small car of some type but I just thought i'd ask. Its pretty sweet.
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Postby snowking03 » Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:04 am

Yeah, I'm a little leery of this, I'd like to see some close up pictures to make sure that it isn't runny or drippy or anything, because I think the paint would pool up at the bottom end of the part, and that's no good for anything that will be visible.
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Postby bubba » Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:02 am

The Black Pumpkin wrote:Another question. Does the paint make drippy run marks down when you take it out of the water/paint?


I tried it with a bar, didn't get that little bubble on the end like when you dip plastic. I went slow, I mean sllooowww pulling it out, that way the excess runs off as you pull it out.

Like with any other paint technic, I would practice on something first.

dgood wrote:I thought it was a frame to a small car of some type but I just thought i'd ask. Its pretty sweet.


Yup it's a roll cage for an radio controlled rock crawler.
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Postby KnightRid » Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:14 am

Nice!!! This will be VERY useful!

Mike

now if I could get patterns for each part in a case, I would be set :)
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Postby bubba » Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:05 am

opening and mounting points can be found in the ATX specs.

mobos pages 12,14, and 15
http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5C ... atx2_2.pdf

PSU's pages 32 & 33
http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5C ... ic_br2.pdf
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Postby Bio-Hazard » Tue Feb 20, 2007 11:30 am

I'm going to have to try this sometime as I can't spray paint worth a damn................ :shock:

I've seen this done at car factories with full sized chassies, but never on the external surfaces.

Thanks for the info.
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Postby stev » Tue Feb 20, 2007 1:28 pm

This method will work on plastic as well if the sureface is prepared ahead of time. In most cases, the plastic sufrace only need to be roughed with fine sandpaper.

If you want more of a color selection and some spetacular effects, try the easy techniques found here ... http://www.yoyoing.com/wildjimbo/wjbmi
Of course, apply bubba's water and oil based paint method to avoid any additional prep or finish work.

Bio mentioned paint dipping large metal parts too. http://www.eisenmann.de/EN/download/Dip_Painting.pdf

How to do plastic computer panels ...
http://www.modthebox.com/paintguide.shtml
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Postby Bio-Hazard » Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:05 pm

Stev, you always seem to have a ton of info on just about every subject................. :shock:

Thanks for the links....... :rolleyes:
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Postby odie2190 » Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:41 pm

thats amazing . ima go try that with my motherboard! :P
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Postby id86 » Mon Apr 23, 2007 6:27 am

odie2190 wrote:thats amazing . ima go try that with my motherboard! :P


really? is it possible? i never know that motherboard can be paint :shock:
just my 2 cents :rolleyes:
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Postby tomato » Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:41 am

Hmmmm... interesting procedure... I might have to try that out sometime as well. My painting skills leave much to be desired :?

So, how slow is slow when you're lifting the piece out from the paint? To avoid any runniness/marks, I would think that you would have to pull it up verrrrry slowly...
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Postby id86 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:16 am

tomato wrote:Hmmmm... interesting procedure... I might have to try that out sometime as well. My painting skills leave much to be desired :?

So, how slow is slow when you're lifting the piece out from the paint? To avoid any runniness/marks, I would think that you would have to pull it up verrrrry slowly...


yeah..i think very very slow like no movements seem to be happen :rolleyes:
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Postby bubba » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:39 am

not slow as a snail, more like a turtle.

remember, as with any new technic you try, practice on a scrap part first find the 'sweet spot' for you.
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