Removing IHS **AGAIN**
Removing IHS **AGAIN**
Since I don't learn from my mistakes I took the IHS off of my Opty 170 - success!!!!
So far, it has only saved me a few degrees at load but I'm seeing what gains in frequency it will get me...TBD
So far, it has only saved me a few degrees at load but I'm seeing what gains in frequency it will get me...TBD
Joe
Priming 2853 now for about 40 mins and no errors. We'll see. I used a disposable razor blade (broke it out of the razor) and it worked great. The width of the razor gets only to the very inner layer of the sealer when flush with the board so I started it at the corner and pivoted it until it was inserted all the way down one side. Pulled it out and repeated on the other 3. Used the dental floss to make sure there was a clean cut all the way through and *POP* it came right off. Jeez, so easy, how could I have mucked it up the first time???
Joe
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From what I have read, dental floss isn't even required...
most people just put tape on the blade and leave only ~3mm exposed....then this can be your guide, so you don't cut too deep.....
I'm going to get a new waterblock next month...so mine should be off then..
I didn't think you were going to risk it again....
Fair balls to you mate......
most people just put tape on the blade and leave only ~3mm exposed....then this can be your guide, so you don't cut too deep.....
I'm going to get a new waterblock next month...so mine should be off then..
I didn't think you were going to risk it again....
Fair balls to you mate......
Here the dramatization...
The blade is from a Schick twinbladed disposable razor.
As you can see, the width of the blade from the edge of the baseboard is less than that of the distance to the delicate circuitry (with exception of the side between the triangle and the "z" - but it barely hits it). Oh, and this is the one I killed so ignore the white marks on the board.
So I started from the corner and pivoted until I cut through the whole side:
It didn't come right off so I used dental floss to ensure I cut all the way through and *POP* came right off.
The blade is from a Schick twinbladed disposable razor.
As you can see, the width of the blade from the edge of the baseboard is less than that of the distance to the delicate circuitry (with exception of the side between the triangle and the "z" - but it barely hits it). Oh, and this is the one I killed so ignore the white marks on the board.
So I started from the corner and pivoted until I cut through the whole side:
It didn't come right off so I used dental floss to ensure I cut all the way through and *POP* came right off.
Joe
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what is the point in taking that off? just to do it or do you get something out of it?
comp specs- too lazy to make a cool looking sig... MB:GIGABYTE GA-MA790XT-UD4P, AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition 2.8Ghz, CORSAIR TW3X4G1333C9DHX 4GB PC3-10666, ASUS Radeon HD 4870 512MB, SB audigy gamer, WESTERN DIGITAL Caviar Black 500GB, antec P180 case (extra 120mm fan and 80mm fan), Corsair HX Series 620W: ASSEMBLED June 2009
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better cooling and more overclock.....hopefully....!bigblockmatt wrote:what is the point in taking that off? just to do it or do you get something out of it?
Milage varies.....some get nothing from it, some do....
some just kill 'em
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how do you cool it then?? i jsut cant picture in my brain how it would contact with everything...
comp specs- too lazy to make a cool looking sig... MB:GIGABYTE GA-MA790XT-UD4P, AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition 2.8Ghz, CORSAIR TW3X4G1333C9DHX 4GB PC3-10666, ASUS Radeon HD 4870 512MB, SB audigy gamer, WESTERN DIGITAL Caviar Black 500GB, antec P180 case (extra 120mm fan and 80mm fan), Corsair HX Series 620W: ASSEMBLED June 2009