Another IHS Removal
- kenc51
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Another IHS Removal
I've done it again! This time it took only ~10mins......
3800+ getting mutilated
Ohhh Nakid
All ready for some AS5
Now to test if I can OC this any higher or if it gives lower temps (or both)
3800+ getting mutilated
Ohhh Nakid
All ready for some AS5
Now to test if I can OC this any higher or if it gives lower temps (or both)
- kenc51
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CPU temps are down by ~6C
with 1 instance of CPU FAH + 1 of GPU FAH temps are
CPU = 42C
GPU = 48C
Old
CPU = 48C
GPU = 49C
GFX @ 710gpu / 800mem 1.475v(gpu) | 3800+ 2.6GHz 1.45v
:edit:
Can't OC any higher, but lower cpu temps are always nice, especially since I have the OC'd X1900 in the loop...........dang this card pumps out some heat!!!!!!!
with 1 instance of CPU FAH + 1 of GPU FAH temps are
CPU = 42C
GPU = 48C
Old
CPU = 48C
GPU = 49C
GFX @ 710gpu / 800mem 1.475v(gpu) | 3800+ 2.6GHz 1.45v
:edit:
Can't OC any higher, but lower cpu temps are always nice, especially since I have the OC'd X1900 in the loop...........dang this card pumps out some heat!!!!!!!
- kenc51
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Thanx,
I still have to get used to the new camera though (Nikon CoolPix L3 5.1MP). When I disable th flash, it's very easy to get a blurred picture. I may buy myself a cheap tripod.
Temps have also settled overnight.
CPU = 39C
GPU = 48C
With FAH running and the GPU clocked @ 710/800 1.475v (1.42v default)
I'm gonna see if I can run the CPU with lower vcore because when I removed the IHS off the 4400+ I could run with .5v less ;)
I still have to get used to the new camera though (Nikon CoolPix L3 5.1MP). When I disable th flash, it's very easy to get a blurred picture. I may buy myself a cheap tripod.
Temps have also settled overnight.
CPU = 39C
GPU = 48C
With FAH running and the GPU clocked @ 710/800 1.475v (1.42v default)
I'm gonna see if I can run the CPU with lower vcore because when I removed the IHS off the 4400+ I could run with .5v less ;)
- kenc51
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Yep! But if you're careful there's no problem ;)HONkUS wrote:very cool! (no pun intended) do you have to be any more careful attaching your water block to a proc that has its IHS removed?
Just make sure it applies even pressure on the chip, just like the old Athlon XP chips.
Ohh, and the waterblock can't use the standard mounting or it won't make contact with the core.
- stev
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Nice work getting that gasket seal cut off.
Did you start at the corners first to break them free and then slit the periphery straight sections?
Did you start at the corners first to break them free and then slit the periphery straight sections?
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- kenc51
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Thanks! Yeah I started at the corners, it's the ony place a blade with fit!stev wrote:Nice work getting that gasket seal cut off.
Did you start at the corners first to break them free and then slit the periphery straight sections?
I was cutting through the chip and before I knew it, It was done! The last time I done it I was a wreck....It took me ages as I had to start and stop.........giving into nerves in between.
Here's a link to my last attempt from a few years ago.
http://forums.legitreviews.com/viewtopic.php?t=4812
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Wow, that looks really hard to do. Have you tried that and taken out a proc before? I would be really scared doing that for a few C lower
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Opteron 170 (messing with OC currently)
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Opteron 170 (messing with OC currently)
ATI x1950 Pro PCI-e 256mb
Corsair ValueSelect 2x1gb PC3200
Westinghouse 22" Widescreen LCD
Antec NeoHE 550w
No problem here, but I was really careful. Yes it was worth it to me b/c I was getting over 52c full load even with water cooling.... Max temp now is 47c
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That's pretty impressive! I'd probably just end up lappng the IHS surface down a bit since it's safer, and still a good way to void the warranty too...
I'm about to pick a fight with the adhesive thermal pads Gigabyte uses on their DS3 boards with their chipset heatsinks, so I wanted to ask ya. I assume it's better to twist more than pull so as to not damage the BGA solder package CPUs/chipsets use? And secondly, have you considered using http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm or anything similar before or used it before?
I am considering trying the ArcticClean since I couldn't even get the heatsinks to wriggle at all after unpinning them. I've removed the 'sinks on a Abit IS7 board before without issue, but they only had used the cheap pink gum on those and not full adhesive thermal pads so they came off easily.
I'm about to pick a fight with the adhesive thermal pads Gigabyte uses on their DS3 boards with their chipset heatsinks, so I wanted to ask ya. I assume it's better to twist more than pull so as to not damage the BGA solder package CPUs/chipsets use? And secondly, have you considered using http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm or anything similar before or used it before?
I am considering trying the ArcticClean since I couldn't even get the heatsinks to wriggle at all after unpinning them. I've removed the 'sinks on a Abit IS7 board before without issue, but they only had used the cheap pink gum on those and not full adhesive thermal pads so they came off easily.
Core i7 920 @ 4.2GHz 1.36v
Gigabyte GA-X58-UD5
Under Water
Gigabyte GA-X58-UD5
Under Water
It seems the TIM on AMD IHS' is still as crappy as on my 3000+ Winchester CPU I had ages ago:
http://www.helsinki.fi/~llounent/Disint ... reader.jpg
http://www.helsinki.fi/~llounent/Disint ... reader.jpg
- kenc51
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You can't do this with Intel chips (or not easily anyway)Schwarz wrote:Well the hard part is not removing the IHS.
Its mounting the HS on it afterwards.
But if you remember back in the days if you mounted your HS to hard you would brake your CPU.
Good job though I didn't think about that sooner.
I might try it on my PD805 to get it cooler :p
The IHS is soldered on the chip
See here
http://forums.legitreviews.com/viewtopi ... hlight=ihs ;)