CoolIT Eliminator
I just received my replacement Eliminator today. Took about 8 days to get here and it seems they changed a couple things. I haven't installed it yet but I did notice that they applied a different thermal paste (similar to Artic Silver Ceramique) where as it was just some normal grey paste in the first Eliminator I got. I'll take some pics and let you guys know what my temps are when I get it up and running.
Got my replacement unit, so far not to happy with it. Idling temps are at about 40 and load go up to 60, thats on max setting. And at max it is really loud. this is on a 6400 oced to 2.66 v core 1.325. there are also 2 bubbles in the tubes, big ones, about 3 cm each, does this cause the bad results, thanx
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Apoptosis
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where are the bubbles when the system is running.bublic wrote:Got my replacement unit, so far not to happy with it. Idling temps are at about 40 and load go up to 60, thats on max setting. And at max it is really loud. this is on a 6400 oced to 2.66 v core 1.325. there are also 2 bubbles in the tubes, big ones, about 3 cm each, does this cause the bad results, thanx
Installed the replacement today, here are some pics:
I'm getting around 34c on idle with a stock E6700 (on High setting) and about 40c idle when OCed to 3.3ghz. Sorry no ambient temps yet as still need to do some stress testing.
BTW, has anyone successfully modded a 120mm fan in place of the stock 92m?
I'm getting around 34c on idle with a stock E6700 (on High setting) and about 40c idle when OCed to 3.3ghz. Sorry no ambient temps yet as still need to do some stress testing.
BTW, has anyone successfully modded a 120mm fan in place of the stock 92m?
can someone please tell me how are these tecs supposed to work, mine don't seem to work or something, isn't one side supposed to be cool while the other hot? on my unit both sides are hot and the tubes too, i get 65 degrees now on 100 % load. do i have a defective unit or is this the way it is supposed to work? if it is it's a waste of money, even my zalman 9500 could run more quiet and work at maybe 10 degrees higher than this.
Here is my mod. I'm using the same fan adapter I think Respek posted.
It really hasn't made that big of a difference in temp.
I'm running an [email protected]=3.5ghz
Idle temps are about 23-30
load during game play is around 35-45
load with Orthos is around 45-55
noise is slightly quieter.
First configuration with a 120mm fan I used a server grade case fan to move a lot of air at lower speeds. I've recently installed a Thermaltake fan to see if I could make the cooler a bit more quieter. I am using a separate fan controller not the TCM from Coolit.
It really hasn't made that big of a difference in temp.
I'm running an [email protected]=3.5ghz
Idle temps are about 23-30
load during game play is around 35-45
load with Orthos is around 45-55
noise is slightly quieter.
First configuration with a 120mm fan I used a server grade case fan to move a lot of air at lower speeds. I've recently installed a Thermaltake fan to see if I could make the cooler a bit more quieter. I am using a separate fan controller not the TCM from Coolit.
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insanenoodle
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respek thanks thanks thanks. your picture was clear enough for me to get the capacitor specs. when I had the eliminator running, my stock e6600 would idle around 22 degrees on the high setting. you know your TEC's aren't on if you touch the blue water reservoirs and they aren't cool or cold. just a thought. bublic, check to see if your eliminator is the revised type (you can tell by the 12v connector and the added capacitor on the board)
my unit is actually the latest revised version, it is the one that comes after the ones with the added capacitor, they managed to get rid of it and still keep the thing functional. i also got new steel mounting hardware with it. You were getting 22 degrees at idle and what was the room temperature? I lowered my vcore to 1.29 and oced my 6400 to 2.66 installed a better 120mm front intake fan and set the eliminator on max and i still get 30 degrees on idle in a room with the temperature of 23 degrees. Is there any way to increase the power of the tecs? thanx
I'm new here, but I read all the posts since I'm having a problem with my cooler, I bought it in hopes of getting nice cool temps but now it seems it's not really working. The plug so far, isn't scorched or anything, but there seems to be little to no difference from High to Low settings (cooling wise) I'm using the E6600 cpu, i cleaned the block with Arctic Clean 1 & 2 until it was so clean i could see my reflection in it, did the same with the integrated heatsink plate on the cpu. My case is the 830 Evo stacker case, and currently i have the one side open with a huge window fan right next to the case blowing cold air in from the a/c unit in my window about 2-3ft behind the fan.
During installation I had no problems with anything, I applied the AS5 in the syringe with little problem, exactly as they said, found the sides where the notches are and made a small thin line down the cpu where the main heat source is, put the waterblock on it twisted from side to side and then thumscrewed it in, th eonly problem was I got distracted and tried to put it in in a rush b/c I had to leave and didn't do it half turn per each, but I hardly think that would cause the huge temp diff i'm seeing. I'm using the 680i mobo from EVGA (forget the exact model, it's the best one they currently offer) using NVIDIA MonitorView my CPU is sitting around 43 right now on low, when before on high it was like 40C, my system temp is 30, and GPU is anywhere between 54-63.
Am I doing something wrong, is there maybe not enough power going to it from my power supply? I have a modular Xion SLI certified psu, running a multi-use modular cable to two PC 120mm fans, one to the motherboard that said "it's a good idea to have a dedicated power source to the graphics cards (which i don't get b/c i have a 8800GTX and two pci-e power connectors just for that card from the psu, not sure if that means I should unplug that from the motherboard since it might be draining power/useless, and yes this is my first build), the last one goes to my Eliminator So all 3 of the molex connectors are occupied, are the TEC's not working properly b/c I don't have enough juice going to them to go full load, or do I need to reapply or redo the waterblock attatchment? I figured 40C was normal, but seeing how some people are getting low 30's i'm wondering if something is wrong. I'll take pictures if they're needed, just don't want to waste space with them atm.
During installation I had no problems with anything, I applied the AS5 in the syringe with little problem, exactly as they said, found the sides where the notches are and made a small thin line down the cpu where the main heat source is, put the waterblock on it twisted from side to side and then thumscrewed it in, th eonly problem was I got distracted and tried to put it in in a rush b/c I had to leave and didn't do it half turn per each, but I hardly think that would cause the huge temp diff i'm seeing. I'm using the 680i mobo from EVGA (forget the exact model, it's the best one they currently offer) using NVIDIA MonitorView my CPU is sitting around 43 right now on low, when before on high it was like 40C, my system temp is 30, and GPU is anywhere between 54-63.
Am I doing something wrong, is there maybe not enough power going to it from my power supply? I have a modular Xion SLI certified psu, running a multi-use modular cable to two PC 120mm fans, one to the motherboard that said "it's a good idea to have a dedicated power source to the graphics cards (which i don't get b/c i have a 8800GTX and two pci-e power connectors just for that card from the psu, not sure if that means I should unplug that from the motherboard since it might be draining power/useless, and yes this is my first build), the last one goes to my Eliminator So all 3 of the molex connectors are occupied, are the TEC's not working properly b/c I don't have enough juice going to them to go full load, or do I need to reapply or redo the waterblock attatchment? I figured 40C was normal, but seeing how some people are getting low 30's i'm wondering if something is wrong. I'll take pictures if they're needed, just don't want to waste space with them atm.
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insanenoodle
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same question for you.. do you have the revision? if your plug is 2 pin opaque white connector, its most likely your TEC's aren't on.
bublic,
the tec's dont have any settings regardless of setting. however, they cool better if the hot side of the peltier is being cooled more (therefore, if you turn the fan to high, the heatsink can carry more heat away letting the TEC's to work more efficiently). when i tested, it was around 25 or 26 C. like i said, try touching the blue reservoirs to see its cool to the touch.
bublic,
the tec's dont have any settings regardless of setting. however, they cool better if the hot side of the peltier is being cooled more (therefore, if you turn the fan to high, the heatsink can carry more heat away letting the TEC's to work more efficiently). when i tested, it was around 25 or 26 C. like i said, try touching the blue reservoirs to see its cool to the touch.
Without taking it off since this is the only computer I can post from, it looks like an off-white 2pin connector, why the hell would they ship with something that doesn't even let the TEC's be on...that's an entirely horrible mistake to make especially for such a 'great' product that gets nothing but excellent 5 star reviews everywhere you look. Is there anything I can do about it? Wire it myself, or do I have to RMA and wait 4-5wks to get it back? Like many have said, they really should offer cross shipping, or at least reimburse you since it's their fault for making a faulty product, not your own.
They do offer cross-shipping. Just fill out the RMA form and you should get an email from someone about getting your RMA started. I think the reason why it was taking so long for most customers was that all the v1 units were experiencing this problem and they just got backed up on RMAs. I think they should be caught up by now with a steady supply of the new revision. However, I did have to pay $15 to ship it to them UPS ground and it took about 8 days when they shipped it back via FedEx ground. Also, keep in mind that they ship the replacements from Canada which is international mail and may take longer for most customers.
reith: You could try what insanenoodle did and add on a 12v connector and capacitor.
reith: You could try what insanenoodle did and add on a 12v connector and capacitor.
Would that void the warranty? And I think I'll just do the RMA and put on the stock intel cooler until I get it back, I'm not that great with wiring/soldering so I'll let them do it I suppose, thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.
EDIT: Just wanted to let anybody who saw and may have the same problem as me know how to easily fix or at least test out if you indeed do need an RMA or not. As I stated previously I have a modular 600W PSU. One of the cables for "misc" connections (standard 4pin molex power plugs and 1 small power plug). I had one plugged up to two internal case fans, one to the motherboard since for some reason I wanted to play it safe (even though i'm 99% sure the connector for that meant AGP gfx cards or perhaps some sort of onboard solution since I have 2 PCI-E connectors dedicated on one line from the PSU just for my 8800GTX, which makes it just wasted power) and the last was to my Eliminator.
As previously stated I never got below 38C (that's with idle temp, no overclock, and huge 20" wide box fan blowing directly on everything) and that was the absolute lowest, and usually that was only in the morning after it got to rest all night long without being on. Since then I hadn't had much time to check much of anything, this morning I unplugged the connector to the motherboard figuring it may be drawing too much juice, and somehow the TEC's couldn't get the required power they needed, and thus they weren't turning on. I rechecked and I do have the old 2 pin plug but nothing was wrong with it. When I turned my computer on I completely forgot about it, started to play Rainbow 6 Vegas for a few hours, came back and then thought about it, realized my fan wasn't blowing on the CPU and wanted to check the temps. When I looked at the NVMonitor I was surprised to see 19C, this was underload, at stock 2.4ghz. So I shut my computer off, happy that I wouldn't need to RMA or fix it myself, and gently oc'ed to 3ghz, underload at 3ghz it was running 26-28C. Anybody who may have this same problem I urge to try what I did, even though I stated it in my previous post it's likely it was just looked at being "too easy" of a solution by anybody who read it (myself included, personally I thought it was incredibly dumb of myself to of done), but the most puzzling mistakes tend to be the simplest ones, hope I helped somebody who is frustrated w/ their Eliminator.
EDIT: Just wanted to let anybody who saw and may have the same problem as me know how to easily fix or at least test out if you indeed do need an RMA or not. As I stated previously I have a modular 600W PSU. One of the cables for "misc" connections (standard 4pin molex power plugs and 1 small power plug). I had one plugged up to two internal case fans, one to the motherboard since for some reason I wanted to play it safe (even though i'm 99% sure the connector for that meant AGP gfx cards or perhaps some sort of onboard solution since I have 2 PCI-E connectors dedicated on one line from the PSU just for my 8800GTX, which makes it just wasted power) and the last was to my Eliminator.
As previously stated I never got below 38C (that's with idle temp, no overclock, and huge 20" wide box fan blowing directly on everything) and that was the absolute lowest, and usually that was only in the morning after it got to rest all night long without being on. Since then I hadn't had much time to check much of anything, this morning I unplugged the connector to the motherboard figuring it may be drawing too much juice, and somehow the TEC's couldn't get the required power they needed, and thus they weren't turning on. I rechecked and I do have the old 2 pin plug but nothing was wrong with it. When I turned my computer on I completely forgot about it, started to play Rainbow 6 Vegas for a few hours, came back and then thought about it, realized my fan wasn't blowing on the CPU and wanted to check the temps. When I looked at the NVMonitor I was surprised to see 19C, this was underload, at stock 2.4ghz. So I shut my computer off, happy that I wouldn't need to RMA or fix it myself, and gently oc'ed to 3ghz, underload at 3ghz it was running 26-28C. Anybody who may have this same problem I urge to try what I did, even though I stated it in my previous post it's likely it was just looked at being "too easy" of a solution by anybody who read it (myself included, personally I thought it was incredibly dumb of myself to of done), but the most puzzling mistakes tend to be the simplest ones, hope I helped somebody who is frustrated w/ their Eliminator.
Went to the Freezone
Well, the second Eliminator that died on me was due to the scorched plug problem. Coolit sold me an upgrade to the Freezone for $85.00. Well worth the money. Idle temp between 34 and 36 on a dual core 3Ghz Intel.