Legit Reviews

Well I tried play Counter-Strike: Source yesterday... That is where the story begins...

It was a bright and sunny day so my room was a bit warm (70F) and when I logged into the server to play I noticed that my Intel reference HSF was running full force. I was running an Intel 670 (3.8GHz) at stock speeds at the time. I launched the Intel Control Center only to find my temperatures on the desktop to be 62-67C depending on what I was doing at the time. No wonder the processor fan was running full blast.



I went and grabbed the Nautilus 500 and installed it in under 30 minutes on my system and after letting the system run for a bit I was seeing temperatures from 34-38C depending on what I was doing again.



I nearly cut my temperatures in half in my situation. It was done in the same room and in an Antec Sonata I case. What a difference water cooling makes. With the nautilus 500 soon to be selling for under $150 I suggest you try out one of these water cooling kits!

My CPU was actually throttling in applications! Blah

LOL.......I've got one coming I think............going to be on my back-up box.........

water rules

eva2000 wrote:water rules

Couldn't have said it better!!!

Very cool (no pun intended) - are these available yet? I think I might pick one up.

Apoptosis

That's one hot chip you cooled down. Good work!

Stev

A sneak peak at the cold block.

http://www.houseofhelp.com/forums/attac ... 1141303111

I notice that Legit Reviews gave a mild review about the viewing slot to show the coolant level. The plastic is too thick to show the contents.

That got me thinking. Why not put a small LED somewhere up front, near the bottom, to light up the white reservoir and semi-green cooolant to actually see the coolant level in the viewing slot. The cost should be under $3 or less. The trick is to find a nice color LED that will assist in showing the coolant. White isn't the answer, but yellow or blue may work since yellow or blue are part of green. Red will make the coolant a near black. Using Green is out of the question since it will illuminate the entire white reservior green.

Stev

Or mayby add more green color to the water......if it's darker in color it may show through?

I would think that it's grenn enough as the mixture is pretty high already, 33% if it's the same as the old Hydrocool 200.

I had the same LED idea and i think its a quick easy fix will take 1 more person on the assembly line where as changing the res over to clear plastic would be a much bigger pain IMO. Lets see it Corasir add an LED.

Bio-Hazard wrote:I would think that it's grenn enough as the mixture is pretty high already, 33% if it's the same as the old Hydrocool 200.

NOPE. Not the HC coolant.

The coolant is the COOL based coolant.

Why? The Nautilus uses the DDC pump.

The higher PG coolant level was needed by the HC's Bosch pump for lubication. If not, the pump would give a wicked squeal like a pig.

So, the COOL coolant is 20% PG & 80% DW.

Stev

20% is still pretty high and still be pretty green................ But I guess the res is pretty thick making it hard to see...............

sweet deal for 150 bux.... i already have a "high end kit" watercooler but my guy friend is using that crappy azz CM-120 water cooler, he doesn't like it and i'm not impressed with it as all.

gotts let him know about this product

TGM

stev wrote:

Bio-Hazard wrote:I would think that it's grenn enough as the mixture is pretty high already, 33% if it's the same as the old Hydrocool 200.

NOPE. Not the HC coolant.

The coolant is the COOL based coolant.

Why? The Nautilus uses the DDC pump.

The higher PG coolant level was needed by the HC's Bosch pump for lubication. If not, the pump would give a wicked squeal like a pig.

So, the COOL coolant is 20% PG & 80% DW.

Stev

My DCC+ is starting to "squeal like a pig." !!!

It's not an issue with too much restriction in the loop........mayby I need to add more additive and or color???

are these DDC pumps mag levs? if so, what is there to squeal? a maganet spinning inside a polar reverse electromaganet.

only thing to squeal that i could imagine woud be the end "nubbers" that keep the impellor/spindle centered inside the electromaganet.

have you found the culprit yet kenc51?

TGM

kenc51 wrote:
My DCC+ is starting to "squeal like a pig." !!!

It's not an issue with too much restriction in the loop........mayby I need to add more additive and or color???

I wouldn't add anymore additive to the system, there isn't any lub points within the pump. The rotor/impeller rests on top of a ceramic ball and is driven magnetically so no type of lube is needed.

http://www.lainginc.com/DDC_Series.htm

Stev would be your best sorce of info on the pump as his compamy helped design them along with Laing.

I've never had one apart, but from the drawings and discription, it may be a problem with the ceramic ball causing the rotor to become mis-alined and rub on the pump housing, but that's a guess.
If that's the case, you'll more than likely have to RMA the pump, but like I said, ask Stev for more info.

so you're saying it's not a mag lev pump, in other words

TGM

man all this talk of ceramic balls and mag lev pumps makes me want to take one apart and see how it works!

Do it and post the pictures

No real reason to take it apart and look unless you want to see it for yourself. Lee (RoboTech) has already done all the dirty work a while back............

http://www.systemcooling.com/swiftech_mcp350-04.html


And also did a little modding to increase the flow a bit here.


http://www.systemcooling.com/mcp350_mod-01.html

Here's a shot of the ceramic ball bearing I was talking about.