Truck question

dday · Post by **dday** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:41 am

You guys seem to be tinkerers of one sort or another.

I have a 95 S10 5 speed. Lately, I grind the gears putting it into reverse and it's sometimes shifts hard into the other gears, even when I have the clutch FULLY depressed. Is it time for a new clutch, or an adjustment?

Next question, how hard is it to replace a clutch? I do the general stuff like replace the belts, alternator, starter...... I even replaced a radiator once......

Thanks,
Dave

Post by **Apoptosis** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:57 am

Make sure that your clutch fluid is topped off and that your motor and transmission mounts are not broken. If a mount it broken it might have cocked the engine assembly just a bit and cause the clutch to not fully engage.

Does the clutch pedal feel like it has about 1.5 to 2" of free pedal travel before you feel it engage the pressure plate?

If yes, then check the clutch master cylinder as it is starting to fail.

Is it hard to shift between all the gears?

If yes, then it's more than likely the clutch not disengaging properly.

Does it grind when you go into reverse? If It grinds especially when you try to go into reverse and the clutch is not adjustable then you need a new one.

As for replacing the transmission yourself I'd say go for it if you have a garage, a 3-ton floor jack, and a complete tool set. You'll need a clutch alignment tool and i always get the flywheel re-surfaced and balanced. You don't have to balance the flywhell, but on the Jeep and my other race cars I always have. I can take the transmission out of my wrangler, replace the clutch and have the new transmission back in under 4 hours and using all hand tools (no air). I'm not sure how long the S-10 will take... You can always call the dealer and ask how long it takes in book hours to replace the transmission and then add a couple to that for doing it yourself the first time. If you plan on doing it make sure you get a good shop manual like a Chilton's and not the Haynes (junk, good for how to replace blinker fluid).

Hope this helps a bit.

bubba · Post by **bubba** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:18 am

Apoptosis wrote:If you plan on doing it make sure you get a good shop manual like a Chilton's and not the Haynes (junk, good for how to replace blinker fluid)

I agree with that 100%. Haynes manuals BLOW.

dday · Post by **dday** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 12:36 pm

I'm not sure now that you ask.
I don't think it has a lot of take up in travel.
I know it's always been a "truck" clutch. If you wait at a red light too long, you put it in neutral and let off the clutch or your leg gets tired.

I'll check out the fluid levels tonight and see. If it does need a new clutch, it may be time to call my buddy that repairs trucks for a living.... he has a small shop with a lift.

It's got a 4.3 liter V6 with great sounding dual Flowmaster pipes and gets 25 MPG...... I want her to be happy...

bubba · Post by **bubba** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:04 pm

If your buddy has a lift I would talk to him. Beats crawling around on your back with the truck on jack stands.

That and if he runs a shop he will most likely have all the tools needed as well.

pointreyes · Post by **pointreyes** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:29 pm

Apoptosis wrote:Does the clutch pedal feel like it has about 1.5 to 2" of free pedal travel before you feel it engage the pressure plate?

If yes, then check the clutch master cylinder as it is starting to fail.

My '87 VW Cabriolet does that. When I purchased the car a year ago the person said they had the 'bands' tightened and it was definitely much tighter than it is now. From what I can tell this old vehicle does not have a 'clutch master cylinder' based on a quick google search. On this older vehicle is there something else that needs replaced or did the name simply change?