Removing IHS **AGAIN**

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FZ1
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Removing IHS **AGAIN**

Post by FZ1 »

Since I don't learn from my mistakes I took the IHS off of my Opty 170 - success!!!! :) :) :) :)
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So far, it has only saved me a few degrees at load but I'm seeing what gains in frequency it will get me...TBD
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Post by kenc51 »

Nice job.....!
My X2 will be naked soon too....

Hopefully you can get some extra MHz.......
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Post by FZ1 »

Priming 2853 now for about 40 mins and no errors. We'll see. I used a disposable razor blade (broke it out of the razor) and it worked great. The width of the razor gets only to the very inner layer of the sealer when flush with the board so I started it at the corner and pivoted it until it was inserted all the way down one side. Pulled it out and repeated on the other 3. Used the dental floss to make sure there was a clean cut all the way through and *POP* it came right off. Jeez, so easy, how could I have mucked it up the first time??? :oops:
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Post by kenc51 »

From what I have read, dental floss isn't even required...

most people just put tape on the blade and leave only ~3mm exposed....then this can be your guide, so you don't cut too deep.....

I'm going to get a new waterblock next month...so mine should be off then..

I didn't think you were going to risk it again....

Fair balls to you mate......
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Post by FZ1 »

I couldn't help myself. I only used the floss becuase after cutting all the way around it didn't come off. I figured the more I futzed with it with the blade the greater the risk of breaking it. So I went with the floss - bingo.
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Post by FZ1 »

Here the dramatization...

The blade is from a Schick twinbladed disposable razor.
Image

As you can see, the width of the blade from the edge of the baseboard is less than that of the distance to the delicate circuitry (with exception of the side between the triangle and the "z" - but it barely hits it). Oh, and this is the one I killed so ignore the white marks on the board.
Image Image

So I started from the corner and pivoted until I cut through the whole side:
Image Image

It didn't come right off so I used dental floss to ensure I cut all the way through and *POP* came right off. 8)
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Post by kenc51 »

It's good to know that, about the side with the Z and the triangle!!!

How do you get the black sealant off afterwards?
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Post by FZ1 »

I used a credit card to scrape it off. I wanted to see if I could use a conductive pen (white looking marks) so fix where I had scratched the board so I scraped it all off.
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Post by Pooreone »

Yours braver then I am! I just couldn't afford to buy another one if I screwed up.
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Post by ELIK18 »

GOOD JOB 8)
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Post by FZ1 »

Well, I'm about to do it a third time...hehehehe. Maybe video this time? :mrgreen:
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Post by infinitevalence »

If i get an opteron 170 then i might do this mod, but im not going to bother with my 3800+
"Don't open that! It's an alien planet! Is there air? You don't know!"
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Post by bigblockmatt »

what is the point in taking that off? just to do it or do you get something out of it?
comp specs- too lazy to make a cool looking sig... MB:GIGABYTE GA-MA790XT-UD4P, AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition 2.8Ghz, CORSAIR TW3X4G1333C9DHX 4GB PC3-10666, ASUS Radeon HD 4870 512MB, SB audigy gamer, WESTERN DIGITAL Caviar Black 500GB, antec P180 case (extra 120mm fan and 80mm fan), Corsair HX Series 620W: ASSEMBLED June 2009
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Post by kenc51 »

bigblockmatt wrote:what is the point in taking that off? just to do it or do you get something out of it?
better cooling and more overclock.....hopefully....!
Milage varies.....some get nothing from it, some do....

some just kill 'em :finga:
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Post by infinitevalence »

because some times there are air pockets or poor contact between the IHS and the chip its self. The IHS also is not always flat.
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Post by EvilCloudStrife »

does the end justify the means when taking off the IHS? have you seen huge gains in terms of overclockability or tempature?
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Post by FZ1 »

I ripped the IHS off of my other 170 too. Temps improved some. On my xpmw I didn't very much frequency improvement. I haven't tested out the UPMW.
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Post by pmanipole »

nice job.

you are much braver then i will ever be
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Post by bigblockmatt »

how do you cool it then?? i jsut cant picture in my brain how it would contact with everything...
comp specs- too lazy to make a cool looking sig... MB:GIGABYTE GA-MA790XT-UD4P, AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition 2.8Ghz, CORSAIR TW3X4G1333C9DHX 4GB PC3-10666, ASUS Radeon HD 4870 512MB, SB audigy gamer, WESTERN DIGITAL Caviar Black 500GB, antec P180 case (extra 120mm fan and 80mm fan), Corsair HX Series 620W: ASSEMBLED June 2009
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Post by kenc51 »

You need a heatsink which bolts on, otherwise there would be a gap between the hsf and the core......think of the old athlon xp cpu's!!!

I'll be doing mine this week :p
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